Volume 1 · The Machine Between the Ears · Essay 146
Gustatory Illusion
Serve the same wine from two bottles — one labelled cheap, one labelled fine — and the guests will taste two different wines. They are not pretending. The brain's pleasure centres genuinely respond more to the expensive label. The label is an ingredient.
Taste, it turns out, is a committee report. The tongue supplies a few basic votes; smell, sight, price, story, and expectation supply the rest. The meal you enjoy is cooked as much by its context as by its chef.
This generalizes uncomfortably far. We do not experience products, performances, or people raw. We experience them pre-seasoned by price, reputation, and packaging. The five-dollar coffee in the beautiful cup is a better coffee. Objectively.
Two uses. As a host, accept that presentation is not deception — it is part of the dish. As a judge of things, run the occasional blind test: swap the labels, hide the brands, ask your tongue alone. The results will embarrass and educate you in equal measure.